The Art and Science of Food and Wine

Graham Howe reports on one of the most extraordinary food and wine tastings he has attended in two decades which took place at Backsberg in late January.

“The pairing of food and wine is a complex and highly inexact science. It is fraught with outmoded rules and a propensity for generalisations.” - Sid Golstein, The Wine Lover’s Cookbook

An impressive cross-section of wine writers showed up for a recent tasting on Monday at Backsberg. We’re pondering on the meaning of an unusual tasting platter in front of us – raw ingredients of apple, coriander, mint, lemongrass, nectarines, salt and star anise – as well as brie, coconut cream, soy cream and saté. All the herbs, spices and sauces are going up against Backsberg’s Black Label wines. I get the feeling this is going to be decidedly different to the usual food and wine pairings.